In 2023, the National AIDS Memorial collaborated with Gilead Sciences and the Southern AIDS Coalition to bring sections of the AIDS Memorial Quilt to communities throughout the Southern U.S to honor Black and Latinx lives lost to HIV and AIDS.
One of those lives is Patrick Kelly’s. Patrick defied the odds to become an inspirational fashion designer whose influence is still felt today. Here is Patrick Kelly’s story, written for our Change the Pattern events in Mississippi:
Who was Patrick Kelly?
Patrick was born in Vicksburg, Mississippi. Living in the South under Jim Crow wasn’t easy. Although his family lacked resources, they were full of resourcefulness and creativity.
As a child, he routinely lost the buttons on his shirts. Unable to match them exactly, his grandmother, Ethel Rainey, would replace them with mismatched buttons and affix other random ones on his shirts. His mother, Letha, later taught him how to draw, and his aunt, Bertha, taught him how to sew—and so began his love of whimsical fashion.
Patrick moved to Atlanta and then New York City to pursue his passion. But few doors opened for him. Instead, his tenacity and friendships with model Pat Cleveland and actress Bette Davis helped set him up for success in Paris. Pulling inspiration from the women in his family, fashion in Black churches, his culture, and the racist iconography of the South, Patrick took Paris by storm. His shows featured Black models dancing and twirling down the runway in body-hugging, colorful dresses adorned with buttons. Patrick made fashion fun.
His charm, charisma, and playful designs led to his notable induction into Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode in 1988. He was the first American designer selected for admission.
Sadly, he lost his battle with HIV/AIDS on January 1, 1990.
But Patrick Kelly is still here. He is an example of immense talent lost too soon to HIV/AIDS and remains an inspiration to designers today. His influence is still felt in designer showrooms and on runways. His designs are reminders of what’s possible when you pursue your passions and your dreams.
Patrick Kelly’s AIDS Quilt Panel
Patrick Kelly was more than a biography can capture. He was a living, breathing person who profoundly impacted the lives of those around him.
Sonia Rykiel is one of the many people whom Kelly inspired throughout his shortened life. Rykiel was a fellow designer who helped Kelly establish himself in the Paris fashion scene and supported him in becoming the first American to gain admittance to the aforementioned Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode.
She crafted a touching AIDS Memorial Quilt panel to ensure his life will never be forgotten. Considered the largest community arts project in history, the AIDS Quilt helps us remember the unique lives and stories of those we’ve lost to HIV/AIDS. The panel captures Patrick Kelly’s unique style, love of color, and features a note of admiration from Ms. Rykiel.
Here is what Ms. Rykiel wrote about him in a subsequent letter to the AIDS Quilt team:
I didn't know him very well, but whenever he appeared somewhere, he commanded all the attention. / He was cheerful, and he loved to play. / He was a colorful man who put buttons and flowers everywhere. / He had a flair for decorating. / He was kind. Every time I met him, he gave me a little black doll. / I liked him very much.
How You Can Make a Difference
You can see Patrick Kelly’s AIDS Quilt panels and search for other names in our Interactive AIDS Quilt.
Like Sonia Rykiel, who immortalized Patrick Kelly’s name in her panel, you can make an AIDS Quilt to honor someone who died from HIV/AIDS, or donate to support the ongoing maintenance of the Quilt’s thousands of panels. Learn more about the AIDS Quilt here:
Learn More About the AIDS Quilt
